Archive for the 'website/blog' Category

Lathe spindle lock – pt. 3

Sorry about the delayed post. We’re consumed with software polishing at the moment and there’s not much time for anything else.

Metal polishContinuing with the lathe lock, I cut 3″ from a 1/4″ brass rod, grabbed that in a Jacobs chuck, and polished it. I start polishing with sandpaper (grit depends upon existing scratches—usually #220 is good to start) up to #2000, then metal polish. My long-time favorite is Mothers, which leaves a beautiful polish. I then sanded (with #120) the part of the brass to be glued into the handle (to give the glue something to hang on to), mounted the rod on the tailstock in a collet chuck, and glued it in. Mounting the rod instead of just shoving it in by hand insured good alignment—important for the next steps. I also glued a scrap block to the bottom of the handle.

Waste block glued in place.

The scrap block let me stabilize the piece with a live center while I turned off most of the waste from the butt of the handle. After all, the rod I’m holding by is brass, and not very thick. It wouldn’t stand up to a lot of punishment. If I’d omitted the scrap block, I’d have had a small hole in the end of the piece, which would require further turning.

Here you see most of the turning complete. The work exposed more voids, which I again filled with the mixture of padauk wood dust and epoxy. That’s the shiny goop you see on the right end.

The finished product

The finished product

The final step is finishing, and here a problem arose. I wanted to use a CA/BLO finish for durability, and I’d forgotten how much heat that finish generates. As I put the first coat on and it cured, the cone started to open up from the heat! As soon as I heard the first “pop”, I knew what was happening and shut things down. I let that coat of finish cure, sanded it lightly, then did the rest with a spray can of lacquer. I got a shiny, hard  finish with no more heat problems.

Cones are interesting to turn, and they produce fascinating patterns. If you need a small handle, knob, or pen, give them a try.

Tuning up a tablesaw

Woodworker’s Journal has a nice article on Tuning up a table saw.

There are some clever approaches that mostly eliminate the need for precision measuring tools. If you’ve noticed burned edges or binding boards during ripping, you’ll find likely solutions here. I recommend checking it out at the link above.

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Super deal on router lifts

If you’re still raising and lowering the router in your router table manually, help may be “at hand”, as it were. Woodpeckers is discontinuing their original Precision Router Lift, and they’ve cut the price dramatically, from $330 to $200, to clear the old inventory.

This is a fine router lift, sturdy and well-designed. Of course, another and perhaps better product is pushing this one out of the warehouses, but this is a great opportunity if you’ve been thinking about a router lift to add precision to your router table.

Just cut a rectangle in your tabletop big enough for the aluminum top plate, drop in this lift, and you can start adjusting your router bit height in .001″ increments. I know that sounds like overkill for woodworking, and for many uses it is. But it’s sure nice to be able to sneak up on a kiss fit with a joint, or to change your height setting and be able to return to the previous one within such tight tolerances. Check it out at the above link.